The Lonely Parent Guide To Qatar and Oman – Single Travels with a Toddler

A sleepless night is never the best pre-flight aperitif life can serve. Bleary and slightly weary, I was dreading my first long-haul lone-parent flight, my daughter just eight short weeks from the terrible twos. Having skipped the world footloose and fancy free for twenty plus years, my mind was full of cabin silence fractured by piercing screams of the young and unhappy. Screams that make each minute feel like an hour, slowing time’s passing even more than flying does already, and a hundred eyes stabbing displeasure toward the guilty parent. A collective forgetting of being young, nerves and irritation jangling in unison as we hurtle at 550 mph in a long cigar tube. Now in the parents club, I know effective action is far harder than group desire in stopping a child’s screams, whether at 37,000 feet or tantrum time in aisle three at Sainsbury’s. All you can do is accept, breathe deeply, comfort, distract and hope you can ride it out wherever the storm. In my determination to be the best ever parent I had of course made contingency plans, effective parenting is planning, planning, planning and failing that a hatful of hope, my master plan for a golden journey began at booking the flights. 

A night flight seemed the best chance of a peaceful journey, seven silent hours to Qatar the goal. First a short hop to Heathrow on Aer Lingus’ new Belfast connection filling the frustrating gap left by BA shuttling off its shuttle service. Landing into Terminal One, I smartly made for the assistance phone at baggage reclaim, a ride on one of those golf buggies would be the perfect way to Terminal Three I decided, who could be more worthy? Sadly I was not alone, the line perpetually engaged there was no choice other than an £8 porter, an £8 that in New York ,I might add, would get you and 8 bags moving, but in London is not even the price of a smile, it seems.

Porter despatched I began to sashay to the desk, involuntary snaking as I pushed the buggy with my left hand and dragged my 30 kg wheeled suitcase behind with my right. I’d like to report 11 charming princes rushing to my aid, but no, this is the land of reality, not chivalry, the Qatar Airways staff, however, were incredibly helpful. And yes! Hallelujah! The check-in person has a 2 year old! With a charming smile and legendary Middle Eastern hospitality she quietly allocated me two seats (I’d paid for only one) with the best leg room of the cabin, at least my side of the magic curtain! Checking in early allows staff to block off an extra seat if the flight has space and to request a bassinet seat. These are located just behind the business class service with beautiful legroom and a large fold down tray where an airline supplied cot can be strapped in. Be warned these seats go quick, get in first and fast is my mantra, porter or no porter. 

The main reason children cry on flights is cabin pressure building up in their sinuses and ears. Once seated, crew checks and taxiing complete I prepared the only defence I know, the trusty cup. The action of drinking mimics our own pressure relieving tricks and should be used on take off and landing. In a moment we were off heading for the clouds. 

My daughter rubbing her eyes after 45 minutes seat bouncing, was the signal she’d soon be ready for sleep, and after an hour passed she finally dropped her last defence giving me a chance to doze too. When I opened my eyes we had 50 minutes to landing, perfect and no glaring stares! A nappy change and breakfast and we were on foreign soil or is that sand? We spent the night in Doha, Qatar’s capital, an opulent emerging metropolis being built out of the desert on the east coast. It’s the next Dubai, if that’s possible and the amount of construction is quite staggering. 

Muscat bound to the Sultanate of Oman next morning, just an hour’s burst by air. Charlie Watts, the “Unknown Stone” and his wife Shirley, shared the flight adding to the glamour and beauty of Muscat, stunning us all with majestic mountains sweeping seaward making the coastline seem almost lunar. During that old favourite, immigration, my daughter decided it was time for freedom! Struggling against my arm and hip combo shackle she tugged desperately while I ransacked my mind for a distraction, immigration is never the time for anything but polite smiles. Shirley Watts stepped in instantly and gracefully began the art of play, as we shuffled forward calmly once more. Phew. We chatted about how fascinating and frustrating toddlers are and how she wished her little ones were two. I asked their ages, she took a gasp, smiled and said “40”! We laughed and watched Charlie pick up their Louis Vuitton luggage from the carousel with out a rock star pretension in sight.

The journey to Shangri-La’s Bar Al Jissah Resort and Spa sped us through the 15th century heart of Muscat and out onto a sweeping coastal route carved through the mountains. The resort comprises three hotels: Al Waha (The Oasis), tipped as a family getaway, Al Bandar (The Town), in the heart of the resort, and Al Husn (The Castle), an exclusive six-star indulgence. After making our way to a sea view room in Al Waha complete with travel cot and sumptuous bedding, we ventured out and played in the lazy river pool, floating endlessly in a huge circle sun-kissed and blissful. Finally time to relax, my daughter constantly entranced by floating, the huge mountains, the desert palms and spectacular flora.

The seven nights were beyond wonderful, hour after hour splashing in the kiddie pool, bobbing in the ocean, true rest and relaxation with amazingly friendly and helpful staff at every turn. The “Turtles” children's club provided face painting, shell collecting and games to keep little ones amused during the hottest part of the days and a little me time for me. Having returned to Northern Ireland after our epic journey, I now have no hesitations about long haul and I have a feeling that pre-school scrapbook is going to be rather interesting!

Flight costs:

Aer Lingus BFS-LHR return £48.00 infant under 2 free booked with 

http://www.aerlingus.com

Qatar Airways LHR-DOH-MCT return £380.00 Infant under 2 cost £47.00 inc, booked with http://www.seat24.com

Al Waha Shangri-La Bar Al Jissah Resort £150.00 per room per night Bed & Breakfast booked through http://www.traveloman.co.uk

Kit:

Mamas and Papas cabin bag with bottle cooler/warmer, contents: 10 nappies, baby butter, re-sealable wipes, 10 nappy sacks, milton hand steriliser, change of clothing for baby and a clean top for Mum or Dad, one favourite toy, crayons, book and 2 bottles or trainer cups. Bugaboo Chameleon stroller ensemble.